A Lewes landmark, The White Hart dates back to the 16th century so its seen its fair share of history, writes Nick Mosley.
I can’t actually recall the last time I visited for a pint in the pub; primarily because the experience was so depressing I’d blocked it from my mind. How could such a beautiful building be allowed to fall into such decline?
Thankfully the property has new, experienced owners and been given the multimillion pound investment and general TLC that it desperately needed. Reopened in October and now positioned as a ‘pub with rooms’ the ground floor features a cosy and well-stocked pub-style bar at the front that leads into a beautiful and atmospheric original oak-panelled dining room and connecting more contemporary space with a terrace and views to Cliffe and the Downs.
I visited mid-week with a tourism colleague so following a brief meander through Lewes, we headed to the bar for a wine before heading to the already busy dining room. During January, the property had been offering 50% off main courses, which was clearly popular with locals who were voting with their feet; we noted that diners in neighbouring restaurants and pubs were spartan to say the least.
The menu reads very well with a choice of ten starters alongside 15 mains divided into various categories. Although there are some very obviously British dishes, on-the-whole the menu nods towards the French kitchen which comes as no small surprise with renowned chef Raymond Blanc involved in the company.
To start, my dining partner opted for the goats cheese and leek tart. Although tasty she felt a little short-changed as the filling only reached half way up the short crust pastry. I went for the beetroot terrine with horseradish sorbet which was far more beetroot than I think anyone could eat, not helped by the sorbet being frozen solid. Overall, the elements of the starters had a feeling of being long pre-prepared and a lack of attention to plating.
Thankfully, things improved considerably with our mains both in flavour and presentation. My guest enjoyed a very hearty dish of pan-fried chicken, mash and green beans with pork lardons and chicken skin ‘crackling’. The elements worked well together and really suited a January supper.
My Chalkstream trout fillet on a bed of crushed potatoes and shrimp with kale was a success. The flesh was beautifully cooked; and the potato combination is one that I’ll be adding to my own kitchen repertoire. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery after all.
For dessert we shared a chocolate parfait with ice cream; a perfectly executed if somewhat naively plated finale to the meal.
There are clearly still a few tweaks that the kitchen needs to work on but that is only to be expected in the first few months of an opening which is why as a seasoned hack I never rush in. All the elements are there for very decent, pub dining which is exactly where the venue is pitching itself: a pub with rooms.
You can expect to pay around £8-10 for starters and £17-22 for mains with wines by the glass from £6.50. Hence for a two course meal you’d be looking in the region of £30-35, which is a little on the high side for pub grub no matter what level of finessing. There’s a decent choice of vegetarian and vegan dishes but generally allergens aren’t particularly well catered for which in this day and age, especially in this part of the UK, seems strangely incongruous.
With a full stomach, I headed up the winding staircase to my room. As you’d expect from a building that is 500 years old, the arrangement of corridors and layout of rooms is higgledy-piggledy and would be a challenge for those with limited mobility as there are a lot of split levels and no wheelchair access. But that’s Grade II listed buildings for you.
I was in room 9, located towards the top of the hotel amongst a forest of centuries old oak rafters. I have to say its one of the nicest bedrooms I’ve seen in a long time – and I can say that with confidence having been on the road for most of December and January.
At its heart, an extremely welcoming super king bed with showpiece headboard and plump duvet and pillows. There were also some thoughtful details including complementary water and milk for tea, petit fours and a pillow spray to help get you into the land of nod.
Within minutes of settling down with my book I was fast asleep and had a full eight hours cosseted in high thread count sheets and blissful silence before I was gently woken by the sun rise.
Although this was January, the room was toasty warm, as was the bathroom with a very welcome heated rail draped with luxuriously thick white towels. The shower was immediately hot and had excellent pressure with complimentary high quality shampoo and body wash. Despite the no-doubt challenges of designing the bedrooms, if mine was anything to go by then these are some of the best to be had in the county.
A relaxed breakfast is served in the rear of the restaurant with all the usuals available and cooked to order. My vegetarian ‘full English’ was more than generous and clearly packed with well-sourced ingredients. The golden yellow of my poached eggs were more than a match for the sunlight bouncing off the Downs.
Service throughout was exceptional – professional but very approachable. The team are clearly passionate about the property and more than happy to engage in conversation making the experience feel like a home-from-home.
Although Lewes is a short hop by train, bus or car – and indeed is walkable if the inclination takes you – from Brighton, its a world away from the hustle of the city. Whether for a well-deserved pint or a relaxing overnight stay, The White Hart is a perfect choice for relaxing or perhaps as a convenient base for visiting Glyndebourne, vineyards or a countryside wander. Its a very welcome addition to the hospitality scene of Sussex.
Nick Mosley
The White Hart, 55 High Street, Lewes BN7 1XE
01273 476 694 • www.whitehartlewes.com