The Bottom’s Rest pub is tucked away behind The Old Market in Hove, writes Nick Mosley. Named after one of Shakespeare’s most beloved and amusing characters of the same name from A Midsummer Night’s Dream, its literally a stones throw from the ever-popular Youjuice and Little Fish Market just off Western Road. Its very much a community pub that welcomes everyone; its definitely not showy, relying more on genuine atmosphere than bells-and-whistles.
The team have clearly put a lot of heart and elbow-grease into the business. I recall visiting a year or so back and it felt a bit grubby and rundown but now its light, airy and packed to the rafters with photos and paintings to keep the eye entertained. There is a word in Dutch – “gezellig” – that has no direct translation in English but essentially means something along the lines of being cosy without being twee. I think that sums up the ambiance of the venue.
Requiring a little Sunday hair of the dog after a weekend of cocktailing around the city, I was very happy to see that Brighton Gin’s superb Jammy Orange gin was on the back bar. If you’ve not sampled this local spirit before then where have you been? Now on the market for a year or so, its a confident, flavour forward orange-based gin that works in harmony with a Mediterranean style tonic water or a negroni, which is exactly what I needed for a little aperitivo to open my palate and steady my hand.
The Bottom’s Rest Sunday roast menu is pretty epic with all the bases covered. Vegan and vegetarian options start just shy of £15 with chicken and pork at £16, beef at £17 and leg of South Downs lamb at £18. I’m not the biggest fan of British Sunday lunches but I was reliably told by my dining companion – who despite her petit proportions eats like a proverbial horse – that was pretty good value in the city.
I was impressed to see that the entire menu – other than the Yorkshire Pudding – is also gluten free. As wheat is no longer my friend, its an absolute treat not to have to ask the service team double check with the kitchen about what dishes are absolutely free of the ubiquitous white stuff.
In the interests of research, I went for the sirloin of local beef: two chunky slabs of tender, pink meat. It pretty much covered the entirety of the plate, hiding the roasted carrots, green cabbage, roast potatoes and – a personal favourite of mine – red cabbage that always brings a pleasing sweet richness to hearty dishes. The gravy was delicious – unctuous without being over-seasoned. And everything was – hoorah! – the same temperature which trust me isn’t ever to be taken as given with roast dinners where elements are so often cooked separately – even days before – then reheated and plated.
My companion went for the roast chicken which we were told are literally whole birds so expect a bit of everything which I think is rather nice as I’m not much of a breast man. As her eyes are bigger than her belly, she also added a side portion of cauliflower cheese priced at £4.50 and I’d say if that’s your thing then it would be a meal in itself. It ended up wrapped in foil for supper that night.
We had a slight but polite head-to-head as to which of the two desserts to order so we could share. I thought the apple and rhubarb crumble and she thought – or perhaps more accurately fought – for the fudge brownie. After much bickering we ended up with both, which were quickly polished off. I love crumble – it might be one of the simplest desserts to make but its got everything going for it: sweetness, tartness, fruitiness and, well, I guess crumbliness. Good work chef!
Currently, the Bottom’s Rest only serves food on Sundays although a little birdie tells me they are looking to extend across the week. The Sunday food offering clearly has a good following as the place was packed from pretty much the moment I arrived at 12.30pm last Sunday until my lunching partner and I waddled, thoroughly stuffed and sated, out of the door at 3pm. Thus I would highly recommend booking ahead as the Sunday lunch show is over by 5pm.
There really is nothing not to love about the Bottom’s Rest. The food is great; prepared and served with genuine love. The beer, wine and spirit list may not be the most extensive in town but is well-considered and perfectly formed. The vibe is relaxed and the venue is heart-warmingly honest and welcoming. In fact I’d go as far to say its the best Bottom I’ve visited in a long while.
Nick Mosley
Bottom’s Rest, 16 Lower Market St, Hove BN3 1AT
01273 733513
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