After working in and around the Sussex hospitality and tourism industry for more years than I care to remember, its a rare time when my jaw drops and I genuinely say ‘wow’, writes Nick Mosley.
That moment happened on Saturday 30 November when I walked through the doors of the sparkling new No 124 by Guesthouse boutique hotel. Located on the seafront to the left of the grand dame Brighton Metropole, the property spans three stuccoed late-Georgian early-Victorian townhouses, one of which – for those of you with memories as long as mine – was once home to the Granville which back in the day was possibly one of the very first UK hotels in the ‘boutique’ genre.
I think its fair to say that No 124 has been a long-time in the making and it really shows. Having lived in a seafront property for many years, I know that despite the apparent outward grandeur they are somewhat jerry-built and have over the years been sub-divided in the most random of ways. Turning a hodgepodge of floors and rooms into a unified premium hotel must have been quite a challenge, but boy have they – literally – nailed it.
Back in the summer, I got all butch and donned workman’s boots for a hard-hat tour of the then building site. I recall saying to manager Adam Rice, that they’d never open on time. And true, there were a few delays but the end result is utterly stunning.
The hotel itself has 30 rooms and suites that exude understated luxury. Dreamy beds draped in high thread count linens, premium toiletries, robes and slippers; even a record player to get you in the mood to hit the town… or the sheets. If you get the munchies, then down the hall there is a pantry for guests with complementary snacks and drinks.
However, on this occasion I wasn’t there to get my Barry White on but rather a lazy lunch with my sister. The cocktail bar is on the ground floor whilst the Pearly Cow restaurant is on the lower ground floor – both are open to non-residents from breakfast until late.
As the sun was nearly over the yardarm, I was feeling it was cocktail o’clock. Now I like my martinis dry – bone dry – and bartender Elliott rustled up perfection in a glass with Brighton Gin. It set the scene for what was to become one of the most memorable lunches I’ve had in a long time.
We made our way downstairs to the Pearly Cow restaurant, an incredibly well-designed flowing space that can be discreetly divided up for private dining and functions. My eye was immediately drawn to the tasting room with its marble-topped table; I definitely have some ideas for that space in 2025.
A quick glass of Everflyht – a very jolly traditional method Sussex sparkling wine from Ditchling that perhaps, in retrospect, somewhat bizarrely I’d never sampled before – served by bar manager Josh was the perfect aperitif as we cast our eye over the menu.
Now its hard to define what exactly Pearly Cow is as a dining experience. It wouldn’t do it justice to call it a brasserie or bistro, but equally its not a fancy pretentious fine dining restaurant. ‘Luxury with your shoes kicked off’ has become a bit of a cliché in the hospitality world but that’s exactly the feel of restaurant.
Headed by Andy MacKenzie – one of Sussex’s most renowned chefs – the ‘fire and ice’ concept menu is absolutely on-point with the finest seasonal British ingredients cooked and served with seemingly effortless aplomb.
We started with salt cod and crab taco – a snip at £4.50 – and a sublime ceviche of scallop cured in tangy yuzu with chilli and cucumber. Both dishes that were faultlessly executed.
For our mains, my sister got stuck into a chunky slab of south coast skate paired with suckling pork belly with an accompanying portion of beef fat chips, the latter of which were astoundingly moreish. I went for the fish of the day – a perfectly prepared sole in a butter sauce with samphire and brown shrimp. Hearty and truly exceptional cooking that I genuinely struggle to find a comparison to.
The attention to detail – whether furniture, decor and bespoke artworks, dishes or service – is second to none. The only other hotel in the city that is anywhere close to this is Drakes on Marine Parade – where chef Andy cut his teeth – but then they’ve had nearly 20 years of practice.
Whilst you can, take advantage of Pearly Cow’s ‘Clever Cow’ opening set menu promotion Monday-Thursday 5-6pm and Friday 12-3.30pm with two courses for £28 or three courses for £32. Start the weekend early on Thursdays from 4-6.30pm with two tacos and a margarita for £15.
No 124 by Guesthouse and the Pearly Cow restaurant are genuine game-changers not only for Brighton and Hove but the entire south coast. Hand-on-heart I can say that delicious dining and heartfelt hospitality doesn’t come better than this. It’s extraordinary – the ball has been smashed out of the Brighton game park.
Pearly Cow at No 124 by Guesthouse, 124 Kings Road, Brighton BN1 2FY
0330 055 4531 • www.guesthousehotels.co.uk
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