I’m increasingly a fan of lunch rather than dinner, writes Nick Mosley. I’m not sure if that’s because its better for digestion or I’m just lazy and want to go to bed early nowadays. Either way, when the opportunity to lunch at Interlude restaurant at Leonardslee Gardens arose I literally pounced on it.
After an unfortunate period of decline in the 2010s, the estate is now thankfully in the hands of South African hospitality visionary Penny Streeter who has invested true heart into the restoration and improvement, including not only the gardens but also the magnificent Italianate manor house that is home to Interlude and some rather beautiful bedrooms for overnight guests.
For those not familiar with Leonardslee, its perhaps one of the most stunning gardens in the south of England. Alongside the gentle woodland walks that surround interconnecting lakes where you can spot squirrels, the occasional sika and fallow deer and – most fun of all – the estate’s free roaming wallabies, there are stunning plantings of rhododendrons and camellias, with the jewel in the crown being the Rock Garden.
Streeter also owns the Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine Estate in the Western Cape near Cape Town, so wine – and good food – are in her blood. Taking advantage of the terroir of Sussex, vineyards have been planted with the traditional Champagne grapes that thrive so well in Sussex, alongside the UK’s first commercial Pinotage crop.
The estate is also home to a collection of sculptures adding further interest for wanderers. Other than wallaby spotting, younger visitors will also enjoy the Dolls House museum and what looked like a pretty good fun adventure playground to me.
We arrived by taxi so had half an hour to have a little wander before lunch. The skies were blue and although there was still a bit of a chill in the air, spring flowers were already in bloom and it was uplifting to see banks of golden daffodils and colourful crocuses, and the first blossoms of magnolia.
Now I recall coming to a launch event when Interlude first opened but – for reasons I can’t now fathom – I hadn’t been back despite hearing some very good things about it. Head chef Jean Delport – also hailing from South Africa – has made waves gaining a Michelin star, three AA rosettes and a recently introduced Michelin Green star that recognises exceptional sustainable practices in restaurants.
The Interlude menu is presented as a journey through the estate. You can’t shift for ‘concept’ dining nowadays, but Interlude’s journey actually makes sense because large parts of the menu are farmed or foraged in and around the estate. It doesn’t get more hyper-local or seasonal than this and its clear to see that forward planning is important to the kitchen with ingredients pickled and cured so they can be enjoyed across the year.
To start, a grape martini – or rather, a-hem, two grape martinis – in the lounge with by far the most accomplished canapés I’ve had in a very long time. The beetroot meringue confection was undoubtedly the most delicious thing I’ve popped in my mouth so far this year.
As there is only one lunch and dinner sitting, guests were gently guided from the lounge to the dining room, a light-filled grand room that effortlessly combines respect for the heritage of the house with contemporary touches that match the modernity of the menu and set the stage for what was to follow; informal fine dining rather than reverential formal dining.
I won’t go into the detail of every course because the joy of Interlude is the art of surprise and I’d hate to pre-empt the dining experience for anyone else.
For me, stand-out courses included the visual spectacle of ‘Rabbit Eats Carrots’ that will come as no surprise as featuring rabbit and carrots. Four canapé style morsels of the aforementioned ingredients served as pureés and terrines alongside deep fried rabbit breast. It genuinely made me reconsider my long-held belief that carrots are too boring to bother with.
Pork leg and faggot with flavour-packed wild mushrooms; an upliftingly fresh jus paired with oyster and Exmoor caviar; five-day salted turbot in a base sauce of a French fortified wine and slivers of truffle.
One tends not to get overly excited by bread; in fact I usually avoid it because I need all the room I can keep in my tummy to enjoy the wider meal. Yet so much thought had been put into the serving. The whipped goats cream butter was superseded by a hot butter cooked before our eyes with all the flavours of a South African braai barbecue.
For sweets, a much needed herby palate-cleanser followed by blackberry and gently sweet and spicy woodruff with dry-ice cream, followed by a full-stop of locally produced chocolate with dulce de leche inspired by chef Jean’s favourite childhood dessert.
It goes without saying that a lot of thought has been put into the wine list. The first release of Leonardslee’s own traditional method sparkling wine was just three months ago and combines a pleasing twist on the quintessential Sussex style alongside a deeper oaky, fruit-forward full body that is typical of South African wine. Much like the menu, Leonardslee’s wine is pushing boundaries in the county.
The set menu lunch is priced at £120 with a more extensive dinner menu available for £195. Curated cocktails and wine pairings are priced separately. Dietaries can be accommodated if they are flagged at the time of booking.
In addition to the undoubted talent of chef Jean and his kitchen brigade, I have to doff my hat to the front of house team – Anya, Helena, Ndosi and Simba – who provided next-level service; the perfect balance of professionalism, knowledge and approachability. It matched the style of the menu and proves that fine dining doesn’t have to be stuffy.
An incredible amount of consideration has been put into the Interlude dining experience. Combining elements of the South African kitchen – one I’m not particularly familiar with – alongside Sussex produce is a stroke of genius, adding flavours and techniques that I hadn’t experienced before but are truly memorable. To my mind, there is nothing quite like it.
The food, service and general theatre are astounding, however for this writer at least, the most astounding thing is that the restaurant doesn’t have two Michelin stars. If I can summarise in one word, Interlude is exceptional.
Nick Mosley
Interlude at Leonardslee Gardens, Brighton Road, Horsham RH13 6PP
0330 123 5894 • www.restaurant-interlude.co.uk
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