The locale of Churchill Square isn’t exactly renowned for quality dining, in fact I can’t think of anywhere I’ve eaten there in years, writes Nick Mosley.
Fans of fast food are probably in their element however a greasy sausage of unknown provenance doesn’t exactly float my boat. Hence I was happy when an email dropped in my inbox from Brighton restaurateur Kyriakos Baxevanis from my favourite Greek restaurant – Nostos – inviting me to lunch at his new venture, the Inn on The Square at the top of Cranbourne Street.
Formerly known as the Western Front, Kyriakos and team have taken over the kitchen at this recently spruced up pub. For those who have enjoyed the offering of Nostos on Palmeira Square, many of their Greek favourites are replicated at the Inn on the Square. As with so much Mediterranean food I think its fair to say that the style of dining is informal and all about sharing.
Garlicky, spicy sautéed shrimp; herby dolmades; a crowd-pleasing crispy deep fried squid; and – my favourite – baked butter beans in tomato sauce, are all on the menu and priced in the region of £7-8 for a hearty portion.
There’s also a rather epic mixed grill which is pitched for two people to share but in my opinion could easily feed more. Stacked with pork and chicken souvlaki skewers, shavings of spiced gyros meat and Greek sausage – alongside fries, salad and a selection of homemade dips – it really is a sight to behold and excellent value at £47.
Ingredients are fresh as a proverbial daisy and clearly cooked and served with passion. There’s plenty of vegetarian and vegan options and around half of the dishes are either gluten free or can be adapted to be so; all pre-requisite dietary options for a restaurant in Brighton nowadays.
The Inn on the Square is very much a pub at heart so their aren’t any airs and graces with service with dishes arriving as they’re cooked. Brighton’s favourite meal is undoubtably Sunday roast so there is a choice of chicken, lamb and beef piled high with vegetables in the £17-20 range plus a choice of vegetarian mushroom and beetroot Wellington and vegan moussaka. Yorkshire pudding fans can add extras for 90p each and half portion roasts are available for kids.
It would be remiss not to mention that the bar has a really good selection of beers from Brighton’s own Laines Brew Co made up the road at the end of Kemp Town, alongside guest beers and ciders from further afield.
Serving up authentic, home cooked and well-priced dishes, Inn on the Square is a very welcome addition to the food offering of central Brighton.
Inn on the Square, 11 Cranbourne Street, Brighton BN1 2RD
01273 725 656 • www.innonthesquare.pub
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